Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Wednesday 31st January – The Forgotten Highway, Mount Damper Falls and the Glowworm Caves of Waitomo


Patea beach from the cliffs in the morning
We had a 4pm booking at the Waitomo Glow Worm caves but instead of going the fastest route we had noticed ‘The Forgotten Highway’, route number 43, through the mountains, named as such because it was one of the first routes used by settlers but there are now much more straight forward routes around the island!
Mount Taranaki poking out above the clouds
The Satnav was warning us to turn back as soon as we went against her orders, but we persevered.  We had seen that we would be passing New Zealand’s second highest waterfall taking this route so we were not to be deterred.  We wound around the roads and went up and over four saddles across the mountains and through some very narrow and ancient tunnels.

Crossing the Strathmore saddle
View across the Tahora saddle
The single lane road through the Moki Tunnel - cross your fingers no one comes through the other way!  (The Forgotten Highway? I think they should call this the 'forgotten to rebuild the tunnel' tunnel)
Mount Damper waterfall
Having traversed roughly two thirds of the highway I noticed a small yellow sign for the Mount Damper waterfall and we veered off to the left.  It was a twenty minute walk each way to a look-out for the falls.  They were stunning, despite not being as full as they can be after heavy rain.  


The 'mist' as the base of Damper falls

Hitting the road (unmade at times) from the falls we were cutting it fine to make our 4pm booking.  In the end we had to wait until we had phone signal and call to postpone our tour until 430pm.  This at least gave us the chance to stop for something to eat and a comfort break that we had ignored up to that point!

We were in good time for our 430pm tour.  Our guide led us into the caves, formed mostly of limestone and tens of thousands of years old.  The glow worms have been here for as long as man has ventured into this cave system.  The caves still belong to the family of the original Maori settlers and many of the staff there are related to those settlers.  There was a strict no camera rule to avoid disturbing the worms and they encouraged everyone to be as quiet as possible.  The caves were cool and fresh-smelling with some intricate formations of stalactites and stalagmites.  As soon as some areas were dark enough we noticed the pale bluey/green lights of the glow-worms. The insects are about the size of a matchstick and each spins itself a web from which it hangs threads down from the roof of the cave.  We were able to see these threads when our guide shone a torch across the ceiling of the cave.  They were everywhere! Just like a spider’s web, these threads catch the flies and mosquitoes that are attracted into the trap by the light emitted from the glow-worm’s posterior.  Each worm lives for approximately a year, gradually building in size and strength, it’s light getting stronger, until it is ready to reproduce. The female lays about 120 eggs and the cycle is repeated.

Photos brought to you thanks to the interweb...
Having learnt our bug basics, we were then invited to board a boat in silence, kind of like in Charlie and the Chocolate factory, to explore the river (though sadly this one was not made of chocolate!).  It was an eerie but relaxing and completely unique experience.  In the silence all I could hear was the regular drip-drip of water from the ceiling of the cave and all I could see were the thousands of tiny lights above my head which were then reflected back from the surface of the water. It became apparent that our guide was steering the boat by pulling on cables suspended above our heads.   
 
We sailed through the cave system for roughly ten minutes before gliding into daylight within a rainforest.   

The path out of the glowworm caves


The whole visit lasted for just over an hour.  We had a BOGOF offer through our camper company, otherwise it would have cost us $50 each – a little too expensive for the short visit I felt, but I was happy with our deal!   

After purchasing our first NZ shot glass in the gift shop we drove a short distance to a farm-stay campsite where we’d seen we could stay for $30, say hello to some animals and be a short drive from our first port of call in the morning.
The 'Famous' Waitomo house truck at our campsite...
One of the other happy campers

Tuesday, January 30, 2018

Tuesday 30th January – Doing the tourist thing in Wellington


The alarm went off at 8am and my head still hurt, more drugs required!

Gollum from Lord of the Rings
We got dressed and drove straight to Miramar, a section of the city home to the biggest film industry outside Hollywood.  Weta Studios is responsible for 30 years of film history – the couple who started the business have gone from working on puppets in their house, to later being involved in all of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and Hobbit movies, as well as Avatar, Ghost In A Shell and most recently Blade Runner 2049 amongst many others!! They have recently recreated the Thunderbirds franchise, retaining the charm by using hand-made models for all backgrounds whilst the Tracy’s themselves and the Spaceships are created by CGI and layered on top of the filmed models.  It seems to be doing well globally, they are currently filming season three.  We were booked on two tours.  The first one covered various creations they have done for massive blockbuster films.  There were no cameras allowed in, as the majority of props still belong to the big movie companies, but we were allowed to take a few pics and here are some from the gift shop. 

We got to meet one of the artists, here creating futuristic buildings out of flotsam and jetsam..... ah, that's where all the left over Lego goes...

Them's hobbitses feet...


Scary Auk
There were many examples of masks and helmets and lots of information, mostly about the LOTR films and involvement by some famous actors.

We had a brief break between the two tours which gave us time for more coffee and to play around outside with the trolls (left).  Then we were transferred by bus to the Thunderbirds studio where we got to see the working sets including Tracy island with the not-so-technical mechanism to expose the runway… But the detail was amazing.  They’ve even continued a gag from the original series of hiding as many lemon squeezers into the scenery as they can get away with! These artists have got one of those jobs I bet they can’t believe. Playing with models and special effects every day of their lives.


The tours finished at 1130am.  I still felt rough.  Simon drove us to what we thought looked like the southernmost point on the island.  Was that the South Island we could vaguely make out through the cloud?! Not sure...
On to our view point for this city, the Mount Victoria look-out for panoramic views of Wellington and the harbour.


The Byrd Memorial
At the same time we discovered the Byrd memorial (right).  If you travelled in a straight along its axis the next place you would reach would be Antarctica. The memorial commemorates two of America’s great Antarctic explorers – Admiral Richard Byrd and Paul Siple. Byrd introduced aircraft to Antarctica and piloted the first flight across the south pole. He then changed his focus from heroic exploits to scientific research. Siple introduced the concept of wind chill to the world and its effects on the human body. Their work largely laid the foundations for the Antarctic treaty of 1959 which declared the area south of 60° south as a region devoted to peace and science with no territories or borders.

We headed back to our car park from last night. We still had some time on our ticket and I still needed something greasy to eat to sort me out, so we created bacon sandwiches from the back of the van on the tarmac! 

We then went to the ‘Te Papa’ museum right next to the car park.  This is a National NZ museum containing many different halls and themes but we had been especially recommended to see the 'Gallipoli; The Scale of our War' exhibition by our guide at Weta Studios, as they had worked on the project.  We had told ourselves that we could only really afford to spend an hour in the museum before we should hit the road but how were we to do that when the exhibition was so incredible and impactive?  

One off the Weta sculptures (with random punter in the background for scale)
The huge replicas that Weta had created were painstakingly made by hand, for example we’d learned earlier that the facial hairs were placed one at a time into the silicon skin.  The models were displayed in individual rooms making them very imposing and each one was a recreation of a real New Zealander telling the story of their involvement and, more often than not, death in World War I.  It was very moving. Almost 3000 ANZACS were killed at Gallipoli, but over 4 times more than that died on the western front.
What an epic journey to join a War - we have been lucky enough to visit Wellington, Hobart and Albany and see the memorials to those brave soldiers
This doctor, Percival Fenwick, survived Gallipoli but was sent home suffering from PTSD after the horror he had experienced
The machine gunners trio
Mega-giant squid in the museum
After we tore ourselves away from the Gallipoli exhibit, we moved to the Earthquake simulator and some wildlife exhibits before we really had to go.  We had made full use of our 24 hours parking, leaving Wellington about 3pm.
West coast's black but very soft and fine sand




























We drove north for about four hours to reach Patea, on the west coast. We found another cheap campground and I went for an evening walk along the river and onto the beach.  Here on the west coast, the sand is black!
Patea beach