Friday, March 16, 2018

Friday 16th to Sunday 18th March – Liveaboard dive trip on the Similan Islands


The crew are very enthusiastic.  Even at 7am when they are walking around the boat shouting ‘Gooooood morning everybody!  It’s a beautiful day here in the Similan Islands.  Let’s go diiiviiinnnggg!’  You get the idea. No-one’s getting to sleep in.  But why would you want to when you’ve paid for the opportunity to dive on some amazing sites in the middle of the Andaman Sea?!

I’m not going to go into detail about every single one of our eleven dives, but for each one we congregated on the main living deck for a specific briefing (above).  This included being shown a map of the dive site, being told the depths and possible currents we would experience and what we may hope to see in different areas and coral formations.  After that, we were split into two main groups to avoid overcrowding on the dive deck as we all got kitted out.  As we were with Kate, the tour leader, we got to go in group one and this turned out to be a benefit, not only because we got to see stuff first before it may have swum away or been frightened off, but it also meant we were back on the boat first for drinks, snacks, chill-out time and use of the limited showers at the end of the day!
So, our first experience at the Similan Islands was at a site called ‘West of Eden’ and we got going in fine style, seeing TWO turtles on our first dive.  One of them was as we descended at the beginning of the dive and it was HUGE! The dive also introduced us to the geology at the Similan Islands.  The underwater topography tends to be a combination of large boulders towering out of the sand and coral bommies.  Beautiful scenery even if it wasn’t covered in life as well! 
A very relaxed turtle
Boulders covered in life
Having towel-dried and returned to the main deck it was time for breakfast.  We were not in danger of starving on this trip.  Full breakfast including chips, sausage, bacon, eggs, salad, toast, fruit and cereal started us off each day!  Having been out of the water for approaching two hours it was on to the next briefing for a site called ‘Deep six’. The underwater topography got even better for this dive with numerous opportunities called ‘swim-throughs’.  As the name suggests, these are naturally formed gaps in the boulders which are large enough for us to swim through.  The benefits being that the changes in light make the coral formations look even prettier but also gives divers the opportunity to look for the creatures that are undoubtedly using the rocks as a hiding place.  You regularly find bigger and more exciting reef life hiding in the shadows in these kinds of places:
Can we really fit through that gap?!
Beautiful coral formations along a steep wall

After lunch and a briefing it was a very important moment for me.  I was about to undertake my 100th dive ever.  Thanks to keeping detailed records of every single dive I have done since 1997 (including an 8-year gap between 2000 and 2008) I was able to confirm this milestone.  Sadly, there is a rumour that it is traditional for divers on reaching their 100th dive to do it totally NAKED!!  So, of course, Simon had mentioned to the crew that this was my centenary dive!  The dive guides had stories of people who took this tradition a little too seriously and went through with it, but I had no intention of inflicting that on our dive group. Plus, I feel the cold and was wearing a shortie wetsuit on every dive, so there was no way I was going to be embarrassing myself doing that.  Far better, we would have a memorable dive at Elephant Head Rock.  And we did, seeing two white-tip reef sharks, a giant barracuda, a Kuhl’s stingray which we have never seen before and an octopus.  An awesome way for me to celebrate.
Trigger fish
Lion fish
Fan coral
Large tuna cruise past overhead
Then, it was time to hit the beach.  We were taken ashore by dinghy to Donald Duck Bay.  A terrible name for a stunning bay, only named as such due to a vaguely duck-shaped rock there!  We took a short but scarily steep at times walk, to the viewpoint to appreciate these views:

Our dive crew...

 
After which, we needed a swim to cool off as we watched some of the local wildlife like herons and crabs. 


 
















We'd been out of the water for at least an hour... it was time for a swim!
Waiting for sunset so we could go diving again....
We were not so pushed for time today because the fourth dive was a night dive within the bay itself.  Each provided with our own personal torch for the dive we were briefed and off we went. It is incredible how different the underwater world looks and feels at night.  The light from your torch reflects the red eyes of countless shrimp and crabs hiding within the rocks and coral.  Sadly, my underwater camera skills are definitely lacking and the torchlight made most of the life we saw too bright in the images we took:

Back on board our work was not done for the day.  In order to become certified as safe nitrox divers we had to watch a DVD, read a booklet, answer some questions and even pass an official exam.  After a shower and another large tasty meal (somehow created in a tiny galley on the dive deck) we had to force ourselves to get through the literature and fill in the question sheet.  We had all used normal air on the night dive because it was a shallower and shorter dive than the rest today.  I will blame the normal air, with its pathetic 21% oxygen, for leaving me feeling exhausted and with a head ache at the end of day one!  We turned in, hoping for a better night’s sleep than last night as we would be stationary and we would be woken up at six am tomorrow, no lie-in till 7!

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