Monday, November 20, 2017

Monday 20th November – Diving Exmouth Navy Pier


Trying to compete with yesterday morning in the relaxation stakes we had a very easy morning.  I got a wash done to tide us over until Darwin and sat in the shade watching pairs of cockatoos sitting next to each other in the branches above me, preening each other lovingly (left).


We were reserving our energy for the afternoon’s outing to dive the Navy Pier, Exmouth.  Well, what can I say about that? You can see why this ranks in the top ten World Shore Dives.  It was incredible.  In fact, the whole process, from being picked up from our caravan site by Dive Ningaloo to sorting equipment and transporting us to and from the site was a showcase of organisation and timing.  This was never going to be a cheap experience.  For a single dive, $140 is quite an amount.  Add to that the $50 cash we each had to have to hand for the security process and that’s broken 100 quid each for the dive.  However, we are privileged to have been able to dive this site.  The Navy Pier is still owned by the US Navy and managed by the Australian Federal Police.  To gain access to the pier we were bussed to the front entrance of the Navy compound where we had to get out and line up with our passport photos showing, to be ‘checked’ by the Feds.  I have never had to do that before in order to go diving!  Our driver then joined us back on the bus and jubilantly said ‘we’re in!’ whilst thrusting a key in the air.  Timing was everything.  The pier can only be dived at slack tide to avoid being swept out to sea.  Slack tide only lasts about half an hour with a slight current to deal with either side.  Hence the reason we were picked up at the random time of 230pm!  Having secured the key it was then a short drive and through a gate for us to be driven down a wooden planked jetty out to the main platform of the pier.  There were also strict rules about no photography as we were passing through the restricted base, but I have a few pics of the diving platform.  We were told in no uncertain terms that we were being watched and should not attempt to pass or climb the yellow barriers around the main platform.  All this sounds very officious, but the fact of the matter is that the navy only issue a license to ONE dive company who are allowed this access. Should things change in the world, I don’t know, say things get taken up another notch between the US and North Korea, then there is no doubt that letting people jump off their pier will be terminated. Permanently. 
Prepping our gear on the jetty
We were shown a series of DVDs on the bus about the history of the pier and the procedure we were to follow that afternoon, as well as tips for our dive plan.  We were given the option, as reasonably experienced divers, to go with a dive guide and five other tourists or just dive it the two of us.  Our thoughts returned to Busselton jetty only ten days previously where we had gone so slowly we never reached the end! But this seemed even more straight forward and having tips about where to see the best stuff, we opted to self-guide.

Dive Ningaloo had a brilliant trailer for divers.  Each of us had a tank attached to our BCD (buoyancy control device or 'vest thing' for you non-divers) and held on to the trailer via a bungy cord.  They were at the perfect height to be able to back yourself into your equipment having already donned your wetsuit and weight belt.  Then you could clip yourself in, do a buddy check and you’re good to go.  So much easier than trying to stand up, fully weighted, on a moving boat!  We got down to the dive platform first, hoping to get going before the main group so we could maximise our dive time.  Part of the DVD had warned about the height of the entry.  It was a good 3 metre high leap into the blue, so we had been reminded to keep a hand on important pieces of equipment that may become dislodged on entering the water.  I have to admit to letting out a girlie squeal as I fell through the air.  It was high (the leap AND the squeal)!  Even before putting your head under, you could see huge shoals of fish beneath you.  It was exhilarating.  Lowering ourselves down the guide ropes to the floor of the seabed we were surrounded by so much life.  And some massive grouper and cod.


We stuck to our plan and headed straight to the north pontoon where some of the larger groupers were hanging about.  Our route was then to zig-zag under the main platform and head to the south pontoon where we had been promised reef sharks and other big stuff! Hopefully these photos do it some justice.  It wasn’t just the size and variety that was on show but the sheer numbers surrounding you.  The snorkelling is great here, but you can only get that feeling of being one of their number by actually being down in the depths with a massive shoal of fish like this.  It’s awe-inspiring.  The pier is a marine sanctuary so there’s no fishing within a certain distance, giving the fish a safe-haven.  The fish probably don’t know this but feel safe under the protection of the pier in any case!


We saw at least four reef sharks and they were so relaxed despite our proximity to them.  There were lion fish and a moray eel to name but a few. Being a reasonably shallow dive, maximum of 14 metres, our air lasted well and we managed to get the longest dive time of the group, spending a full 53 minutes under water.

Lion Fish
White-tip reef shark

Moray Eel
No one was in any rush to leave the pier.  I had the added bonus of having a nest-full of osprey off one end of the pier.  The youngsters had only recently fledged so were being taught the ropes of how to fish by their parents.  The dive company supplied drinks and snacks and we all compared notes about what we had seen until we were told it was time to leave the restricted area. 

Being a late afternoon dive, by the time we had been returned to Exmouth showered and changed it was basically time to be turning in for the night.  We have had a lovely stay I Exmouth that has given us a decent break from driving.  So, tomorrow it is time to make a lot of headway north if we’re going to make Darwin by the end of the month!

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